Thursday, October 10, 2013

Day 16 - Bump and Dilli Haat

Today is Thursday, but I start the day off thinking it is Wednesday.

Wednesday mornings, the women members of Gurgaon Connections get together for brunch at the Pullman Hotel, a five star hotel, from 9:30 am to 12:30 pm. 

Gurgaon Connection is a social community for expatriates (foreign passport holders only) who live or work in Gurgaon. With more than 1,800 member households, they have news, clubs, committees, and social activities for just about everyone! The group offers a way to share information and build a network with friends nearby via a Yahoo Group and website.  Members get a discount good for discounts at restaurants, bars, and spa services. 

I take a Tuk Tuk to the Pullman Hotel looking forward to meeting some women from the community.  When I arrive at the restaurant, they tell me that today is Thursday.  Wrong day.  It's not the first time that I show up for an appointment on the wrong day....a week ahead or a day too late..... I am very disappointed. 

Mr. Kumar, a sales manager, welcomes me,  offers a complimentary coffee and asks me about my business and Eli's work.  I give him my email address and he will contact me in the future.  He has another appointment, so I am left alone to finish my coffee.  

I notice a newspaper, so I pick it up and read it.  On the front page is an article about Puja celebrations in Gurgaon.  One celebration in particular is expecting over 10,000 people to attend their celebration.  I bring the story to the front registration desk and ask about the location of the celebration.  A nice woman checks the internet and gets a phone number for me to call to find out more about it.  I learn that it is at Nirvana South City 2, Sector 50 from 1:30 pm - 3:30 pm and from 7:30 pm to 930 pm everyday until October 13.  I won't go there today, but maybe tomorrow.

I want to hire a Tuk Tuk to take me to the Metro Station, but I only have large bills.  The nice woman gives me change for 1000 rupies...ten 100 rupie bills.  I am happy and I walk out the door ..walking rather quickly......except I walk right into a clear glass door and bang my head and cause a 3/4 inch gash by my right eyebrow .  I am bleeding.  They give me a cold wash cloth and I press down on the cut for 15 minutes before the bleeding stops.  I am so embarrassed.  They offer to take me to a doctor, but I decline.  They put a bandaid over the cut and I wait a few minutes to get over the shock.  My head is sore right by the cut, but I just want to get out of there.  

I go outside and tell the porter that I want to go to the Guru Dronacharya Metro Station.  He offers a complimentary car to take me there.  The road is under construction and not safe to walk on.  It is not far...three blocks.
  
I take the Metro  to INA station to visit the  Dilli Haat arts and crafts shopping area with very nice food courts. 20 rupies admission fee. It is managed by the Delhi Tourism Department which selects  vendors for its 62 stalls to bring products from different areas of India and only allow then to stay for no more that 15 days.  Each time shoppers come, there is a new variety of items to see.  Products offered may include rosewood, marble and sandalwood carvings, embellished camel hide footwear, sophisticated fabric and drapery, jewelry, purses, metal crafts, original art work, and silk and wool fabrics


I enjoy walking past the stalls and viewing such a variety of items in a small space.  The food stalls look and smell good.  I am not sure about sanitation.  Kitchen areas have windows and doors without screens.  Flies come and go.  I am especially looking for a necklace and earring set to match my saree.  I take a walk past all the stalls and take a mental note of any stalls I want to return to.  I find a stall with a nice necklace/earring set for 700 rupees that match the saree.  Another stall has a set of bracelets for 200 rupies.  Success!!  



As I walk by a stall with a variety of puppets for sale, I pick up a few to look at.  The woman there tries to sell me one for 1200 rupies.  I say no..too much.  She asks what I would be willing to pay..in her broken English.  I say 300 rupies.  She declines. I walk away.  She gets me to come back and shows me a puppet that is not so nice for 300 rupies.  I say no.  Then she puts a puppet into a bag and hands it to me to buy.  I give it back to her.  I say I will buy this one for 300 rupies.  She refuses and I walk away.  Finally she agrees and I have a puppet.   I want to surprise you when I get home, so I won't describe it.  It looks just like the ones that were used in the puppet show at the Kingdom of Dreams culture shows.  I have a cardboard puppet stage at home.  My grandkids will enjoy using it.


Just a few stalls later, an artist is selling original paintings made with ink on paper.  I say I don't want to buy any...my walls are covered with Keary's paintings.  He says...   Sit down.  Just let me talk.  I don't have to buy anything.  I say OK.  He talked for about an hour about Mithila folk art.  His family passed along this form of folk art from generation to generation.  He showed me each painting and talked about each one from his stack of paintings.  The paintings are done on recycled paper that is flexible, will not tear, and can be rolled it up again and again.

I found more information on the internet:  Women in the Mithila region of Bihar in north India have painted colorful auspicious images on the interior walls of their homes on the occasion of domestic rituals since at least the 14th century. This ancient tradition, especially elaborated for marriages, continues today. However in 1968 in the midst of a severe drought, a few women began to paint on paper for sale, as a new source of family income. At first they simply transferred onto paper the traditional images - gods and goddesses and symbolic icons - from the wall paintings.

Soon many other women followed, and even a few men. Over the next 30 years, while retaining the wall paintings' distinctive styles and conventions, they began painting many new subjects; episodes from the Ramayana, local epics and tales, ritual activities, village life, even autobiographical paintings.

The following website will tell you more about the history of how this form of folk art was discovered and how there has been an Art Institute formed to help girls.
http://www.mithilapaintings-eaf.org

After his presentation, he asked if I would buy a painting.  I said I could spend a 300 rupies.  He showed me what I could buy for 300 rupies.  I wasn't interested in those paintings.  I pointed to one painting in particular that was hanging on his wall.  He said it was special. It was painted by his sister who is an award winner at local competitions. He pointed to her signature on the bottom of the painting.  The other paintings by other artists are not signed.  Only hers.   He showed me three other paints that she did.  She does not have time to do much painting because she is working full-time at another job.  I asked him how much for the one I liked.  4,000 rupies...too much for me.  I declined.  I told him I will not buy any paintings today.  The only one I liked is too much.   I got up to walk away.  After some discussion he agreed to let me buy the painting for 1000 rupies.  I look in my purse and learn that I do not have enough money.  I have to go to an ATM machine to get more money.  He will hold it for me until I return.  I have to walk all the way back to the entrance and then a little bit down the street to an ATM.  Then back to the stall.  It is hot and humid, but I am enjoying the adventure.  So now I have an original painting by a recognized Mithila folk art painter.  I will show you when I get home.  :)


By this time I am hungry.  I have to break down and buy some food.  There is a big variety to choose from, but I decide to buy 8 steamed vegetarian momos for 80 rupies and a sweet lime soda for 40 rupies.  The lime soda also comes salty..meaning the drink would have extra salt added and the top edge of the cup would have salt on it...yuckky.   It doesn't taste anything near as good as San Francisco Chinese dim sum.  

I sit and relax in the shade for about an hour and take notes about what I did today.  Then I take another walk around and buy a tunic top for 150 rupies and a shirt for Keary for 750 rupies.  



It is about 6 pm.  Cultural performances will start at 7:30 pm. I take a seat near the front of the stage and watch people.  Three dance groups dance for about an hour and a half.  One group performs a funny skit/dance. There is no dialogue.  A hunter armed with a bow and arrow and accompanied with a friend attack another hunter also armed with a bow and arrow.  The first hunter successfully shoots the second hunter in the leg with an arrow.  The injured hunter and his companion limp up to a man and woman with a pot on her head.  The injured hunter's friend begs the man and woman for some holy water in the pot for his thirst.  The woman lowers her pot and gives it to her companion.  He pours some water into the man's hand.  He takes a drink and immediately is refreshed and dances around with joy.  He begs them again for holy water for his injured friend.  The woman's companion pours some water for the injured man.  He is immediately healed and he dances around.  Now the injured hunter chases the other hunter and injures him in the leg.  Then the second pair of hunters limp up to the man and woman and beg for holy water for themselves.  The woman's companion pours some water for the second hunter and his friend, but now no water comes out when he tips the pot.  There is no more water in the pot.  They hunters beg and beg for holy water.  The pot is poured again and miraculously there is now water enough for both of them.  They dance around in joy.  Then they go after the first hunter and his friend.  They succeed in injuring the first hunter and they all repeat this routine for two more times.  Each time the pot is empty, then miraculously has water in it for the hunters that are begging for help.  How does that small pot hold enough water for this dance? It is funny watching them.

When the performances are over, it is getting late and I do not want to miss the last Metro train going back home. I walk back to the Metro and get off at Sikanderput station and take a tuk tuk back to Eli's place.

Bye for now..






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